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Gerry 

Apr-30-2007 21:01

The square footage of our work area is 290. We had a professional come out to give us an estimate on installing. He is allowing 15% for waste and charging his labor based on the square footage with the 15% added in. Is this a industry standard calculation?

Dear GERRY: The jobs are normally charged per actual square footage. That is the beauty of the free world. This allows you to find another contractor if you wish. Paul Wilson

louis 

Apr-30-2007 15:54

On an outside deck can I lay porcelain tile on the plywood?

Dear LOUIS: No. Also, don't forget the waterproof membrane between the substrate and tile bond coat. Paul Wilson LOOK HERE

andy 

Apr-30-2007 04:27

Tileman can you tell me how to prevent ceramic floor tile settlement before the adhesive has set thanks

Dear ANDY: For horizontal tilework, if tiles are settling during the installation, something is wrong. Generally the mortar is being mixed too wet. For verticle tilework, use ledger boards or spacers or both. Paul Wilson

korniemd 

Apr-29-2007 21:39

I am in the process of redoingg a bathroom. I need to replace the present ceramic tile (small sqquares) with a beter 12 x 12. My old tile is installed on a concrete base over wood. The finished height from wood to top of tile is 1 1/4 inches. If I use 1/2 inch backer board can I double it and then lay the tile? I also read about ditra but cannot fine out what the thickness is. Would use that over the 1/2 inch concrete board. What do you recommend? I will remove all old tile and cement and begin from the wood.

Dear KORNIEMD: If the mortar bed is still in good shape, only remove the tile. Level the mortar bed with a good floor leveler, then re-tile in thinset mortar. Paul Wilson

ajonen 

Apr-29-2007 20:56

I accidentally used my 1/4 deep trowel with my 13 inch tiles. Duh I was not paying to much attention to that. Well I have 1/2 inch plywood, with 1/2 inch backer board. I used thinset mortor with porcelin tiles. Do I have to worry?

Dear AJONEN: If they are not hollow and are not moving, don't lose any sleep! Paul Wilson

BullDawg 

Apr-29-2007 20:23

Hello, I tiled my tub surround with 6" tiles and left 3" squares in some of the corners for glass inserts. These inserts come in sheets with a paper backing. If I use white mastic to put these in, what is the best way to take the paper off and remove the mastic from between the small glass tiles, to leave room for grout, without moving them?

Dear BULLDAWG: Normally you can soak the paper off. Cut the mastic out of the joints with a sharp razor knife (be careful) after it has cured. Paul Wilson

lov2cr8 

Apr-29-2007 14:20

I have covered my heavily painted brick fireplace with cement board and now would like to do mosaic work combining tile and broken china pieces on this suface. What would the best adhesive be for this surface in regard to the heat factor that would also have the least caustic nature while working with it?

Dear LOV2CR8: Modified portland cement thinset. Paul Wilson

rcliffor 

Apr-29-2007 13:53

I am planning to put ceramic floor tile over old red 4x8 fireplace brick. The brick platform holds a wood stove that weighs about 400 pounds. If I clean the old brick and do an acid etch, will I be able to get mortar to stick, or will I have to use a concrete backer board?

Dear RCLIFFOR: Don't use acid for etching. Mechanically scarify (clean) the brick and then tile with mod thinset. If leveling is necessary, use a speed setting thinset to level and a compatible mod thinset to set the tile. Consult with a quality mortar manufacturer for recommended thinset combos. Paul Wilson

SirDouglas 

Apr-29-2007 03:43

I have purchased some 12 x 12 Italian tile, which was used for indoor. Can it be used outdoor? like a entry way? Thank You for your answer... Doug

Dear SIRDOUGLAS: If it is impervious and has good slip resistance, yes. If not, no. Consult with the distributer for that info. Paul Wilson

JEFF/SALLY 

Apr-28-2007 13:19

HELLO, I HAVE JUST ADDED A TILE/GLASS SHOWER TO MY BATHROOM. NOW WE WANT TO TILE 4FT UP THE OTHER WALLS OF THE BATHROOM. CAN I ATTACH 8X8 1/4 CERAMIC TILE TO PLAIN WALLBOARD WITH ADHESIVE AND THEN GROUT THE SPACE BETWEEN THE TILE?

Dear JEFF/SALLY: Yes, it is done all the time. Use type 1 mastic or mod thinset. Paul Wilson

scanmike 

Apr-28-2007 11:05

I have a 9x9 exterior front porch with a basement under it. The floor is 2x6 joist with T&G cedar deck, no sub floor. The house is 90 years old and the boards have separated and leak to the basement. The cedar is in good strong shape. I am thinking of baceing the floor joist, to take out the flex in the floor. Put down a layer of 3/4 ext ply then a layer of wonder board and thinset a slate over it . Will this hold up especially in the cold weather? How will the job hold up without a solid concrete base? Is this type of application ot reccommend? Thanks Mike

Dear SCANMIKE: Make sure that the flooring joist and subfloor combo meets L/360. Wonder board will be fine but must be waterproofed on top for freeze thaw. Slate is OK but will show freeze thaw damage over time. Paul Wilson LOOK HERE

DIANE   

Apr-27-2007 14:58

HI MR TILEMAN I INSTALLED TILE WITH LISTELLO'S IN MY BATHROOM IN 2003 AND NOW THEIR ARE CRACKS APPEARING IN THE LISTELLO'S. THE TILE STORE SAYS THAT NO ONE KNOWS WHY THAT HAPPENS BUT NOTHING COULD BE DONE. IS THIS TRUE THAT US JUST HAVE TO LIVE WITH THE CRACKS WON'T WATER GET INTO TO THE CRACKS. IT DOES NOT LOOK PRETTY. THANK YOU

Dear DIANE: It is sometimes an attribute of handmade tiles or tiles produced under less strict commercial volume production conditions. It is one of the reasons people buy such tiles as they are historically representative of certain handmade features and NOT commercially produced ceramic. The reason for crazing is simply a variant from the thermal coefficient of the glaze and the nonvitrified clays. It is not a defect when the tile is handmade. As a wall tile element, it is fine and often aesthetically desired for Spanish / Mexican, old European, etc... tiles.

Corky 

Apr-27-2007 11:18

Tile Man: I purchased a house with a glass block doorless walk-in shower. The ends of the glass block where the doorway is, are covered with tile mortered to the glass block. Can this tile be removed from the glass block, so I can retile the rest of the bathroom? Thanks in advance.

Dear CORKY: The only way to remove the tiles is probably a dry masonry saw. Safety glasses, respirator, and adequate ventilation is mandatory!. The other issue is how to tie waterproofing back into the installation. Good luck. Paul Wilson

Miu 

Apr-26-2007 22:37

Hi Paul, Thanks a lot for your clarification. So, if there is a fixing agent (e.g. Planicrete) that stated that it's for fixing of ceramic tile, can it also good for fixing homogenous tiles and porcelain tiles?

Dear MIU: If by "Fixing" you mean setting, probably not. Planicrete is a Mapei producty used for filling and leveling concrete slabs in preparation for tilework. Setting imperivious tiles is best done by modified thinset mortars. Hope this helps, Paul Wilson

Miu 

Apr-26-2007 05:46

Hi, I am a bit confused on the name of the tiles. Can anyone please advise the differences between the following? Difference between ceramic tiles and porcelain tiles. Are porcelain tiles also a kind of ceramic tiles? Difference between ceramic tiles and homogenous tiles. Are homogenours tiles also a kind of ceramic tiles?

Dear MIU: You will find these differences in the way tiles are described under ANSI and ISO guidelines. For the user these differences are related to water absorption, abrasion resistance, breaking strength and the like. Porcelain and Homogenous tiles are rated to have very low if any water absorption, generally have very great abrasion aresistance, and generally very high breaking strength. Ceramic tiles fall under these tiles sometimes by a significant degree, So, why doesn't everyone use porcelain or homogenous tile all the time. The reason is they are not always desirable or necessary plus their cost can be much higher. Hope this helps Paul Wilson Look here

kb8man 

Apr-25-2007 16:26

Hello Tileman, Love this site perfect for us DIY'rs. Here are my questions. I was planning on installing Hardiebacker on the sides of my shower remodel. I have a hotmopped pan. I planned on puting the hardie on the wall over a moisture barrier with a 1/4" to 1/2" gap from the pan and then floating the shower pan up to and against the hardie board, allowing me to have a solid base (holding the bottom end of the board). I tried to check with hardie if this was acceptable and they answered back that it must be maintained with 1/4 to 1/2 inch lip above the pan lip. Does this mean I can not embed the hardie into the mortar bed for the floor. If so what is the reasoning since Hardie can not or will not tell me. Should I just do the job with durock or wonderboard instead? My second question is... The studs are not quite level vertically do I need to shim them out with Thinset or can shim boards be used behind it. Thanks

Dear KB8MAN: Wow, that's alot of questions. Hardie is a good product and to take advantage of their warranty you must follow their recommendations. Their product will wick water out of the pan mortar. TCNA tells us to keep backerboards out of pan mortar. Some BB manufacturers say it is OK to embed. If you wish to embed like I do, find a manufacturer that says it's OK. Always bring your studs on-plane within 1/4 inch in 10 feet, square, and plumb before you backerboard! Paul Wilson

jmazour 

Apr-25-2007 11:01

I am going to install a tumbled stone backsplash in my kitchen using 4 x 4 tiles. I realize there is some maintence and I will have to seal the tiles, but this is what the wife wants. I read somewhere that since the tiles are uneven that I may want to use larger grout spaces. What size grout spaces would you recommend? Also, would you recommend thin-set or mastic for this project? Thank you very much

Dear JMAZOUR: If you are talking about tumbled travertine, I don't use a joint at all. I simply stack them and level the install as I go with wedges. When these are grouted, The joint will appear to be 3/16 to 1/4 already. Mastic (non-staining) or mod thinset is fine! Paul Wilson

Pandora 

Apr-25-2007 11:00

I am having 4 x 4 slate tile placed on my bathroom floor. My shower tile is white 4 x 4 ceramic, and still in good shape. But, I would like to tie the two areas together, so I thought I could remove several white wall tiles and replace them with some of the slate tiles. However, they are much thicker than the old whitle tiles. Do you know if I can "thin" the slate tiles by sanding them down? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Dear PANDORA: If you want to use an accent in the walls, the difference in elevation doesn't matter. You can use a sander to bevel the slate tile edges so that the difference won't be so abrupt and it will look cool. Paul Wilson

syd barrett 

Apr-24-2007 16:46

My house is 17 years old. Crawl space not slab. The tile in all 3 bathrooms needs replacing. Some tiles cracked, some have come loose, etc. I got a quote from a fella to replace the tile. He said he would pull up the old tile and pour a self-leveling liquid (or whatever) over the existing concrete for a new smooth surface, and then tile over it. But I have spoken to other people who say, No that's not right. You need to rip up all the existing concrete, build it back up with plywood, and install "backer board". The original guy says that's crazy, you'd need a freaking jackhammer. He pulled up some loose tiles in one bathroom and drilled a hole to show me it was like 3" thick. Who is right?

Dear SYD BARRETT: The "fella" is. From what you have described, it sounds like you have a rather thick mortar bed. That is great provided that the bed is still structurally sound. Reomove existing tile, use a leveler, and re-tile. Paul Wilson

NewTileer 

Apr-24-2007 11:18

Received the following message this morning but I can't locate the answer on your Q&A pages. Please help! My question was #9786. Your question posted on 2007-04-23 13:33:05.823 at Ceramic-Tile.com! has been answered by one of our tile experts on 24-Apr-07.

Dear NEWTILEER: Don't know. It looks like a glitch. What was the question? Paul Wilson

Q man 

Apr-24-2007 10:27

What is the best way to put ceramic porecelain tile on an outside wooden deck?

Dear Q MAN: The best way is to do it right! Have fun, Paul Wilson GO HERE www.thetiledoctor.com/installations/patiosdecks.cfm

jennifer 

Apr-24-2007 10:16

i want to change the color of my tile in my kitchen. Is there any paint or stain that will work and how can this be done. thanks

Dear JENNIFER: Tile can be painted. You need to buy the right paint. Consult with a paint supplier for recommendations. Paul Wilson

NewTileer 

Apr-23-2007 13:33

My home is new and the builder used C-Cure MP-sanded 924 grout (which I have 4 bags). When I mixed it there was no color(cement color only). My grout color is #113 Pebble Beach (according to the builder spec sheet). Is the color added to the grout while mixing or is it a product that is put on after the grout cures? I'm familiar with using pre-colored grout but obviously this is not pre-colored grout. With the addition to the bathroom, it would be very tedious to hand apply color to the new grout lines. Can you shed some light on this subject?

Dear NEWTILEER: Yes, apparently the wrong grout was used. Colored grout is provided by the manufacturers with the color already in it. You need to get the right grout. Paul Wilson

tsaldi 

Apr-23-2007 10:06

I have a cast iron outdoor table that has curved tiles on the edges. Over the years many of these have cracked or have broken off the table completely. I would like to replace these but am having a hard time finding somewhere to purchase this curved type of edge tile. Could you please direct me to a manufacturer that may supply these. Thank you.

Dear TSALDI: If I am reading this right, it seems that these are actually manufactured in a curved shape and not cut to form a radius. Short of determining the manufacture this will be tough. Have you contacted a local tile distributer or furniture aficionado? That is what I would recommend. Good luck, Paul Wilson

DG 

Apr-22-2007 20:26

Tileman, I just installed a Schluter profile (SCHIENE) along a 9' x 3' x 3' section of tile that is in front of a door that leads to the porch. I inadvertantly installed a 3/8" Shluter profile with 5/16" thick tile, so the profile sticks up above the tile ever so slightly. I haven't grouted yet, and there will soon be new carpet along the tile. The install looks great, but I'm wondering if I'll have a tripping hazard or if the profile will bend over time since it is slightly above the tile? Any advice here would be welcomed, as if it is advisable to rip up the profile and tile and replace, then I would like to do it before the new carpet is installed. Thanks, DG

Dear DG: I would try it out and see what happens and if a tripping hazard is indeed a problem. The industry says taht all changes in elevation greater than 1/4 inch needs a ramp. The bottom line here is this: It is your home, I presume, and if it is a problem, you would have to rip it up anyway. Good luck, Paul Wilson

Jerry  

Apr-22-2007 19:49

We have a 30 year old house with laminate counter tops. We would like to install ceramic tile countertops. Can ceramic tile be installed over the laminate? Can the laminate be removed and the base used with ceramic tile?

Dear JERRY : Some would say yes. I would say, no. The laminates should be removed and replaced with a suitable rough top and build up from there. Look in The Tile Doctor for instructions. Good luck, Paul Wilson

Ram 

Apr-21-2007 19:12

Hello Tileman We just bought our new home and are making trips to the design center for selectiong our options. The kitchen we have is very open and there is no real separation b/w the kitchen and the family room. We thought of putting hard wood in family room and Ceramic tile in kitchen, but the design center manager advised that it would look awkward to separate the two. Moreover, the island is very close to the family room and if we put bar stools for the break fast bar, there would be very little space. part of it would be on the kitchen and part of it on the family room. So we have to take either tile throughout or hardwood. I have walked barefoot over a tile floor and I kind of eel that the grout is little irritating to the feet. Can we request the builder to have the grout as narro as possible? Also, I have read abt bouncy floors being a problem for the tile. How can I find out if my floor would be bouncy? The model home in the community has a big marble like tile with very narrow grout. I don't know what tile it is . I am not sure what the disadvantages are with hard wood floor. We badly need your advise. I don't know if having a tiles in the family room is out of place and is not preferred. Please advise. Thanks

Dear RAM: Tile anywhere is a good idea, but, I am very fond of tile. Hardwood in a wet environment is problematic. I am calling a kitchen a wet environ due to spills and the like. A narrow joint of 1/8 inch is OK. Be sure to request a rectified tile for this purpose and a highly experienced setter is a must! Good Luck! Paul Wilson

monaiskandar 

Apr-21-2007 04:58

How can I test for the presence of ceramic powder in a solution?

Dear MONAISKANDAR: I have no idea. I would recommend contacting a chemist. Good luck, Paul Wilson

tigger 

Apr-20-2007 11:11

We have an older home that has the ceramic tile holder ends but the plastic rods are missing. I am having trouble finding replacements. Do they still make them and if so , is there a special name for them? Thanks, Tigger

Dear TIGGER: Consult with a reputable tile distributer. I used to get those from DAL Tile. Paul Wilson

peterpan00712 

Apr-19-2007 23:12

how to build up a shower base slope?

Dear PETERPAN00712: Dear Peterpan00712, Go to www.thetiledoctor.com and reveiw the "How to"section on "Showers" Part 5 will take you through the steps you need to know. Good luck, paul Wilson